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		Working With Brass Continued   Next it was time to drill some holes to mount a mid-level piece. This 
		mid-level piece will be fastened to the U shaped piece but will also 
		allow me to mount a round handle as well. 
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      | This piece of brass started out being 1" X 
		1" X 8" long but I cut it down to 6" in length. Here I'm cleaning up all 
		four sides and then I'll clean up the ends. 
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      | I'm transferring the hole location to my mid-level piece below. Then I 
		drilled and tapped some 5/16-18 holes for my button head cap screws. 
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      | I didn't like the blocky look so I used a corner round tool with a 1/2 
		radius to soften the ends. 
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      | I'm getting ready to mount a round handle to the 
		mid-level piece and knowing what people might do while playing an escape 
		game, I made it much harder for someone to unscrew the actual handle. 
		That's a 1/2-13 socket head cap screw that I'll be using along with a 
		3/16" hardened steel dowel pin to the equation. This should prevent 
		anyone from being able to remove the round handle. All this will make 
		sense in a minute. 
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      | This brass bar is 1" diameter X 8" long. I'm going to cut it to 6" long 
		and machine it into a handle. 
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      | I figured out exactly where I wanted the tapped hole to be in relation to the 
		dowel pin. Then I drilled and reamed the 3/16" dowel pin hole first and 
		then tapped the 1/2-13 threads. 
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      | Next I cleaned up the diameter and also put a 1/4" 
		radius on one end. Now this is an unconventional way of putting a radius 
		on something in a lathe because this is a milling tool. But when you 
		don't have the correct concave radius lathe tool, you make do with what 
		you have. Whatever works you know!
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      | I put a series of grooves with a radius along the length of the handle. 
		This does two thing: first it's easy on the hands and second, it's easy 
		on the eyes. 
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      | Here you can see how the bolt and dowel pin arrangement is, and how it 
		will prevent someone from unscrewing it. 
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